Ni Hao China!

When recalling a story, every good ending has an equally good beginning…and what a beginning it was.

After catching a bus at 4am in the morning to Seoul International Airport, I soon became distracted by the sheer enormity of the building, the abundance of Korean ­­­­­­as well as international restaurants and of course the tempting allure of the ‘internet café’ (only 500 won per hour!) After completing my last blog and catching up with my e-mails, I soon realised that I only had 20 minutes to catch my flight, pass through security and take a shuttle bus to the gate (!)

After running around in a frenzied panic, I was hastily directed to the correct floor by a helpful air stewardess (8 minutes to go), passed though security (6 minutes to go) and raced towards the shuttle bus for my connection. Upon arrival (3 minutes to go), I was met by a member of staff who addressed me by name and checked my passport while we sprinted to our gate at speeds that could rivaled my fellow Jamaican Usain Bolt. With 10 seconds to spare, I made my flight and seated myself at the back of the plane in embarrassment and to equally avoid the disheveled looks of my fellow passengers. Beijing here I come!

About an hour later I arrived at Beijing International airport and was greeted by my taxi transfer - a small and friendly Chinese man who bundled my luggage into his decrepit vehicle at the entrance of the building and raced down the motorway at skilled velocity. In comparison to South Korea, my initial impressions of China were ones mixed with both cultural expectations and first hand observations. The vast streets of Beijing were engulfed with thousands of people both old and young, lined with commercial and internationally friendly department stores, infested with beggars charting everyone’s movements in hope of some spare change, street sellers advertising everything from toys to freshly prepared chicken skewers and cars weaving through the traffic at every opportunity. Don’t get me wrong, I had completely expected to be overwhelmed by the size of the population however I had not anticipated that I would feel a complete sense of awe at what I was witnessing before me – how everyone seemed to be intertwined by some invisible force that had sustained each generation for thousands of years.

As a tourist and obvious westerner, I often found myself the centre attention by passing groups of locals who would ask me to pose for pictures, hold their children or to simply converse with them. Initially I found this quite embarrassing, but as the days went by I soon began to understand and sympathize with their fascination – as a native it is extremely difficult to leave the country unless invited by an educational institution or for business purposes. As my tour leader later informed me, many are required to pay up to 30,000 pounds just to leave the country, so any nationality or ethnicity in China other than their own is understandably seen as something of a commodity.

In the days that followed I met up with my tour group – an internationally mixed group of young people who were equally excited and enthusiastic about discovering the delights of China and met my tour leader, an approachable, humble and highly intelligent man who vowed to share his historical knowledge and love of China in exchange for our cooperation and curiosity.

First stop…a tour of the impressive bird nest Olympic stadium that lived up to all expectations and the Lama Temple, our first taste of the prevailing religion of Buddhism in the country. Everywhere we turned, locals were praying while wielding incense sticks and we glimpsed the one of the tallest Buddha in China – impressive!

The next day featured the highlight of our stay in Beijing and the attraction I was personally looking forward to the most – the Great Wall of China. After an hour long bus journey we arrived at a popular access point of the wall where tourists were given the opportunity to take a cable car up to the midway point or climb over 700 plus steep and winding steps that the majestic wall had to offer. Naturally I chose the latter option which enabled me to tangibly experience the wonders of the Great Wall one excruciating step at a time. When I reached the first primary station I was met with a multitude of emotions, most memorably: jubilation that I had conquered the steep steps when at times it seemed my legs would go no further, admiration at the sheer beauty that was presented in front of me - how each twist and turn of the wall seemed to be intricately decorated with the blossoms of spring and trepidation at the awesome power of the Great Wall. What an amazing experience!

The remainder of my stay in Beijing consisted of visits to Tienanmen Square, a city square in the centre of Beijing that is the largest in the world, The Forbidden City - a Chinese imperial palace hailing from the Ming Dynasty whose beautifully decorated and grand structure understandably took my breath away and last but not least sampling the infamous Beijing duck...yum!

From Beijing we ventured forth to Shanghai - the most populous city in China that serves as one of the world's leading influences over finance, commerce, fashion, and culture. I shall not go into great detail over every one of the six 12 - 15 hour sleeper train journeys we took in order to cover the vast expanse of China but I will however give a brief overview of my experiences. Although having already taken sleeper trains while interailingunfaceable (and positively disgusting) in the on board squatter toilets shared by hundreds. A good sign to go by is if a Chinese person refuses to go into a cubicle then there is definitely something wrong! I have lots of good memories of those journeys with my tour group - the ever changing landscape, playing every variation of card game to pass the the time, listening to music while we chatted into the evening and sampling every variety of Oreos ever created. Good times!

Anyway back to Shanghai - the land of a thousand high rise buildings, impressive shopping districts and beautiful Chinese gardens set in the heart of the capital. During our orientation tour, we strolled along the riverside to the glimpse the impressive (and slightly cloudy) contours of the encompassing city, visited picturesque gardens that exuded tranquility and climbed the tallest tower in the world. This time, climbing hundreds of steps was cleverly evaded and after reaching the top we were treated to breathtaking views that I shall never forget. Shanghai you have my heart, I will definitely return again one day...

While in transit between Shanghai and Xi'an, the city famed for the terracotta warriors, my health took a turn for the worst and I spent the next few days unable to hold down any fluids, feeling nauseous and generally fatigued due to a lack of a good nights sleep. To top it off in my weakened state, I spilt a bottle of sprite over my SLR camera resulting in a hefty wedge out of my budget disappearing due to reparation costs. Doom and gloom aside, our visit to the terracotta warriors was both a highly educational and visually stunning one. The main excavation site we visited housed over 1,000 warriors dating back to 210 BC, with each terracotta figure intricately designed as a perfect replica of men who had lived, breathed and died in China thousands of years ago. Discovered by local farmers in 1974 in Lintong district, the pits have long been regarded as one of the worlds leading heritage sites and the craftsmanship of each warrior serves as an impressive feat of traditional Chinese art. As one of the highlights of the tour, the terracotta warriors did not fail to disappoint and left me with a deeper understanding of the diverse and rich history that China has to offer.

Now on to my personal favourite destination of the tour and backpackers paradise of the east - the scenic town of Yangshuo. What can only be described as a haven equally paralleled to the floating mountains of Avatar, Yangshuo provided the tour group with a much needed break from the hustle and bustle of city life. With our hotel surrounded by beautifully flowing rivers and moss covered mountains that went on as far as the eye could see, Yangshuo served as the epitome of nature and welcomed us with open arms. Taking full advantage of the scenery, the next day we embarked on a journey of discovery and exploration through the mountains by bicycle and foot, down the Li river by bamboo rafts, into deep caves for pore cleansing mud baths and natural hot springs. Even the continual rain could not detract us from the pure beauty of the place and as the sun descended on my time in Yangshuo my admiration did not. Shanghai you have my heart but Yanghuo you have my spirit.

Our final stop and most westernised destination of our trip was Hong Kong, situated on China's south coast and enclosed by both the Pearl River Delta and South China Sea. Known as one of the most densely populated areas in the world, Hong Kong did not fail to disappoint and provided me with a perfect introduction to the dynamic and fast paced world of business and international finance. Over the final few days, our orientation tour took us to Victoria Harbour where we witnessed impressive light shows by night and glorious views by day, Buddhist temples, bird markets and breathtaking botanical gardens. Although my stay here was short-lived, Hong Kong definitely made a lasting impression and I have promised myself that I will one day return again.

Overall my experiences of China have been nothing short of amazing - my tour group, the country's rich history and culture, the food (even though at times debatable), the people, the train journeys and the memories that will stay with me forever. China, I love you, it's been a blast...

Goodbye South Korea...hello Beijing!

As the red sun descends on my journey in South Korea a new dawn rises in the form of discovery and exploration in China. I have thoroughly enjoyed my travels in Seoul and I am truly sad to be leaving. Over the past week I have marvelled at the grand palaces, dined in tantalizing restaurants, enjoyed a glass of Soju (or two), ridden a cable car across the bright lights of the city, glimpsed a traditional Korean village, immersed myself in it's contemporary music, eaten far too many rice cakes...the list is endless. One thing I know for sure is that I will definitely return to South Korea, the soul of Asia.

Before giving an update on my travels, I thought it would be interesting to compile a list of some of the observations I have made of South Koreans in Seoul for the would be traveller. As a tourist myself, I soon had to adjust to the customs and traditions of those around me and I have tried to adhere to their way of life as much as possible.

Here are a few examples:

• When holding heavy luggage on a train, someone who is seated may try and take it off you. Do not worry, they are not trying to steal you belongings. Rather helping you with your load
• There seems to be an obsession with doughnuts in Seoul - everywhere you turn there is a 'Dunkin Doughnuts' store and many markets sell them by the box load
• Although foreigners misunderstandings of Korean traditions are largely accepted and expected, it is important to observe the following rues while using chopsticks. Do not pass your food around with them, use them to point at other diners, drum them on the table or lick food off them - it's seen as very rude
• You are never far from a toilet in Seoul and many are fitted with a control panel that allows you to flush while using it to avoid embarrassment
• Unlike their neighbours in Japan, the majority of South Koreans dislike cats and often associate them with superstition. It is rare to see a South Korean keeping one as a pet
• It is rude to use strong eye contact when addressing someone who is older or in a higher position then you and it is not uncommon for South Koreans to ask your age when you first meet them so they can judge how to address you. In front of an elder, lower your gaze and only use direct eye contact when talking to someone of equal status
• Some South Koreans opt to have surgery to create a fold in the upper eyelid. It apparently costs around 500 pounds and gives a more desired, western style look.

As you can imagine I could list many more! My last few days in Seoul were filled with visits to two more palaces, a musical concert showcasing traditional Korean music and walks along the promenade by Hangang River in Yeouido Province. Deoksugung Palace, smack bang in the heart of the city allowed me to witness the changing of the guards ceremony - where men in traditional costume chant along to a beating drum while marching around the square. Really entertaining!

From there I met Bok-Dong for a quick lunch and we headed to the river - the sun was shining and the locals were out in force with families cyling along the paths, street performers entertaining children and food stalls galore. I braved my fear of the creepy crawly and tried eating a stewed bug, a popular snack in South Korea. I can't say I would try it again as it was quite chewy in texture but i'm proud that I tried it!

Later that evening we attended a music concert led by Bok-Dongs university lecturer. Divided into four sections and including an array of korean instruments, the concert showcased the beauty of their art and at one point became so melodic and soothing I was nearly lulled to sleep! Overall a great day!

My final two days were spent exploring a famous shopping district in Seoul to pick up some gifts for my family and visiting a friend I went to university with who is currently working as an English language teacher. The two hour train journey on Korea Rail was fast and efficient as expected and after a subsequent short bus ride I arrived in the city centre where I met up Lily and Jack. We then headed to the hostel to meet their friends. Later that evening I given the opportunity to sample Soju, a famous alcoholic drink in South Korea that tastes a bit like sweet wine - yum! The following day we looked around the city, visited ancient tombs built for royalty, walked through cherry blossom fields and visited Buddhist temples. So much fun and great company :)

I'm really not ready to leave South Korea. This week has been a whirlwind and I couldn't have asked for a better trip. I will definitely return in the future. So goodbye South Korea, it was a blast...hello Beijing!

Annyeong Haseyo South Korea!

I've made it! I have finally (and safely) arrived in the dynamic and fast-paced city of Seoul, South Korea. In short, my flights went ok (apart from a bout of turbulence in the middle of the night that had me praying and holding on for dear life) as did my connections. My transfer from Seoul Incheon Airport was fast and modern and gave me my first taste of the mountainous korean countryside as well as the efficiency of their transportation system.

Not long after I arrived, Ahra (my korean friend) and her sister (Bok-Dong) met me outside the metro station and we soon headed to a local Indian restaurant with her parents. What welcoming and gracious people! No sooner had we made our introductions, Mr Cho (Ahras father) proclaimed that he considered me 'like a daughter' and radiated such warmth and hospitality towards me that I instantly felt at ease. The Cho family apologized that we were dining in an Indian restaurant rather than a Korean one...but I continually reminded them that it was the first time that I was having Indian food in Asia, so it was all new for me! Over the course of the meal, Mr Cho made me laugh by proclaiming that 'I looked like the western girls you see in textbooks in Korea' (!) I wasn't sure what to reply to this but i'm sure it was meant as a compliment!

Later that evening, we went back to Ahra and Bok-Dongs apartment where I would be staying for the week. On the journey there, we passed hundreds apartment blocks all dotted closely together - commonly referred to as 'apartment forrests.' Over a third of the countries population live and work in Seoul and it was amazing to see how many different blocks could be squeezed into such a confined space. Unlike Britain, hardly anyone in Seoul has a garden and green open spaces, except for those protected by the government for farming purposes, are a bit of a rarity. Their apartment is small and cosy, and as Seoul is 8 hours ahead of British time, my proceeding nights sleep was much needed.

The next morning I set off with Ahra to visit one of the many palaces in Seoul. Set in the heart of the city with mountainous landscapes forming its background, Gyeongbokgung Palace is unlike any I have been to before. It was so beautiful! Each of the limestone buildings at Gyeongbokgung Palace are constructed with such intricate detail with every section of wood fitted together in a mathematically precise way rather than using nails. Nicknamed the 'Palace of Shining Happiness,' Gyeongbokgung housed over four hundred buildings at its peak and held the regal throne for thousands of years. However under the Japanese rule, the palace became a centre for police interrogation and torture and many koreans suffered shame and embarrassment as the Japanese sought to destroy their pride. Walking around the grounds, I could definitely feel its rich history, and as cliche as it sounds the palace really did seem at one with nature. The rest of our visit consisted of walking around the grounds, admiring the pinks and yellows of korean flowers in bloom and watching fish swim in the man-made yet natural spring lake.

From the palace, we then ventured to a local shopping area to find something to eat and look around the markets. If I were to experience any form of culture shock it would be here - what a place! Winding streets filled with endless market stalls selling everything from street food to handmade jewellery as well as flashing neon signs at every corner inviting customers to come inside. As we walked through the streets I was literally left speechless - so much to see, to touch to explore! Everything seemed so different to our culture yet very alike, never before had I seen every type of seafood imaginable out in display and sold in abundance, women baking biscuits on the streets with sugar alone and endless fabrics and materials that could dress the finest king. I nearly bumped into a few locals as I couldn't keep my eyes on the road ahead!

After whisking me through the streets we eventually arrived at Ahras favourite restaurant - a traditional korean eatery in the heart of the city. Upon entering, we were asked to take off our shoes (a sign of respect) and were seated at a table close to the floor where we sat cross legged. Unlike at home where you are given a choice of a starter, main course and dessert, many courses in korea are brought out at once in an array of tiny dishes. We were literally spoilt for choice - so many different tastes and textures! I really liked the food and thoroughly enjoyed the meal (plus I only coughed a few times from the spice level). Before departing for home, we made a quick stop at the Han River - a small, natural river that runs directly through the heart of the city. I must visit there again before I leave - apparently its beautiful at night and omits an array of colours.

Day two: A much more relaxed day - I braved the metro system by myself and with some help from the locals and skilled map pointing I eventually arrived at the Samsung Museum of Art. From traditional Korean and Buddhist paintings to contemporary illustrations, the museum provided me with an interesting insight into how the country has evolved. Before I left, Ahra informed me not to worry if I get a few stares on the trains and out in public as foreigners are not as common in Korea as other countries, but I didn't mind. As I had met Ahras cousins wife the night before, she suggested that we all went to lunch together and she took us to another Korean restaurant - this time set by the mountains and in a more traditional setting. The waitresses were clothed in traditional korean dress and like our meal the previous day, we were served an abundance of foods ranging from vegetarian dishes to fish, meat, calamari and eggs. I am so grateful to her for taking us to this restaurant...the food was amazing and went down well with rice water.

When the evening arrived we visited the 'N Seoul Tower,' an infamous landmark set in the mountains where you could see the whole city. Famed as a place were lovers go to propose, we took the cable car across the mountain and rode the lift to the top floor to observe the views of the city. Seoul seemed to stretch on for miles and miles with every corner dominated by apartment blocks, offices, department stores and shops. The mass of cars and motorways (the biggest with up to 16 lanes in total) seemed to blend into a blur of red and white and I was left with a sense of awe of the rapid growth of humanity and modern technology. Outside the tower, there were fake metal trees where lovers could purchase a lock, write their name and their partners then throw away the key to symbolise their joining of hearts. So sweet! We quickly left as soon as it got dark as we didn't want to disturb the couples romantic moments...

Day three: Felt a bit tired today from jet lag but was looking forward to the journey ahead. Ahra's mother had kindly offered to take us to a traditional folk village at the edge of the city which promised a glimpse into Korea about one hundred years ago. Upon arrival, we watched a performance of korean dance which was really facinating and laughed along with the hundreds of school children that waved and sang along with them. From there we watched a traditional korean royal wedding, a horse show where the riders stood on top of the horses and performed acrobatic moves and a man dancing on a rope suspended in the air. So entertaining! We then wondered around the village for a couple hours, (which is often used as the set for korean soap operas), and were provided with a glimpse into traditional village life, the typical arrangements of the houses and land as well as the livestock that would be kept. I would love to live somewhere like here, it seems such a peaceful and relaxing place - as long as I can have access to the internet though!

Will post some more updates soon, tomorrow I am going to a local market with Bok-Dong, then we will visit a few more palaces. In the evening we are going to watch a korean music performance at a local theatre. I can't wait...but for now, sleep :)