Not long after I arrived, Ahra (my korean friend) and her sister (Bok-Dong) met me outside the metro station and we soon headed to a local Indian restaurant with her parents. What welcoming and gracious people! No sooner had we made our introductions, Mr Cho (Ahras father) proclaimed that he considered me 'like a daughter' and radiated such warmth and hospitality towards me that I instantly felt at ease. The Cho family apologized that we were dining in an Indian restaurant rather than a Korean one...but I continually reminded them that it was the first time that I was having Indian food in Asia, so it was all new for me! Over the course of the meal, Mr Cho made me laugh by proclaiming that 'I looked like the western girls you see in textbooks in Korea' (!) I wasn't sure what to reply to this but i'm sure it was meant as a compliment!
Later that evening, we went back to Ahra and Bok-Dongs apartment where I would be staying for the week. On the journey there, we passed hundreds apartment blocks all dotted closely together - commonly referred to as 'apartment forrests.' Over a third of the countries population live and work in Seoul and it was amazing to see how many different blocks could be squeezed into such a confined space. Unlike Britain, hardly anyone in Seoul has a garden and green open spaces, except for those protected by the government for farming purposes, are a bit of a rarity. Their apartment is small and cosy, and as Seoul is 8 hours ahead of British time, my proceeding nights sleep was much needed.
The next morning I set off with Ahra to visit one of the many palaces in Seoul. Set in the heart of the city with mountainous landscapes forming its background, Gyeongbokgung Palace is unlike any I have been to before. It was so beautiful! Each of the limestone buildings at Gyeongbokgung Palace are constructed with such intricate detail with every section of wood fitted together in a mathematically precise way rather than using nails. Nicknamed the 'Palace of Shining Happiness,' Gyeongbokgung housed over four hundred buildings at its peak and held the regal throne for thousands of years. However under the Japanese rule, the palace became a centre for police interrogation and torture and many koreans suffered shame and embarrassment as the Japanese sought to destroy their pride. Walking around the grounds, I could definitely feel its rich history, and as cliche as it sounds the palace really did seem at one with nature. The rest of our visit consisted of walking around the grounds, admiring the pinks and yellows of korean flowers in bloom and watching fish swim in the man-made yet natural spring lake.
From the palace, we then ventured to a local shopping area to find something to eat and look around the markets. If I were to experience any form of culture shock it would be here - what a place! Winding streets filled with endless market stalls selling everything from street food to handmade jewellery as well as flashing neon signs at every corner inviting customers to come inside. As we walked through the streets I was literally left speechless - so much to see, to touch to explore! Everything seemed so different to our culture yet very alike, never before had I seen every type of seafood imaginable out in display and sold in abundance, women baking biscuits on the streets with sugar alone and endless fabrics and materials that could dress the finest king. I nearly bumped into a few locals as I couldn't keep my eyes on the road ahead!
After whisking me through the streets we eventually arrived at Ahras favourite restaurant - a traditional korean eatery in the heart of the city. Upon entering, we were asked to take off our shoes (a sign of respect) and were seated at a table close to the floor where we sat cross legged. Unlike at home where you are given a choice of a starter, main course and dessert, many courses in korea are brought out at once in an array of tiny dishes. We were literally spoilt for choice - so many different tastes and textures! I really liked the food and thoroughly enjoyed the meal (plus I only coughed a few times from the spice level). Before departing for home, we made a quick stop at the Han River - a small, natural river that runs directly through the heart of the city. I must visit there again before I leave - apparently its beautiful at night and omits an array of colours.
Day two: A much more relaxed day - I braved the metro system by myself and with some help from the locals and skilled map pointing I eventually arrived at the Samsung Museum of Art. From traditional Korean and Buddhist paintings to contemporary illustrations, the museum provided me with an interesting insight into how the country has evolved. Before I left, Ahra informed me not to worry if I get a few stares on the trains and out in public as foreigners are not as common in Korea as other countries, but I didn't mind. As I had met Ahras cousins wife the night before, she suggested that we all went to lunch together and she took us to another Korean restaurant - this time set by the mountains and in a more traditional setting. The waitresses were clothed in traditional korean dress and like our meal the previous day, we were served an abundance of foods ranging from vegetarian dishes to fish, meat, calamari and eggs. I am so grateful to her for taking us to this restaurant...the food was amazing and went down well with rice water.
When the evening arrived we visited the 'N Seoul Tower,' an infamous landmark set in the mountains where you could see the whole city. Famed as a place were lovers go to propose, we took the cable car across the mountain and rode the lift to the top floor to observe the views of the city. Seoul seemed to stretch on for miles and miles with every corner dominated by apartment blocks, offices, department stores and shops. The mass of cars and motorways (the biggest with up to 16 lanes in total) seemed to blend into a blur of red and white and I was left with a sense of awe of the rapid growth of humanity and modern technology. Outside the tower, there were fake metal trees where lovers could purchase a lock, write their name and their partners then throw away the key to symbolise their joining of hearts. So sweet! We quickly left as soon as it got dark as we didn't want to disturb the couples romantic moments...
Day three: Felt a bit tired today from jet lag but was looking forward to the journey ahead. Ahra's mother had kindly offered to take us to a traditional folk village at the edge of the city which promised a glimpse into Korea about one hundred years ago. Upon arrival, we watched a performance of korean dance which was really facinating and laughed along with the hundreds of school children that waved and sang along with them. From there we watched a traditional korean royal wedding, a horse show where the riders stood on top of the horses and performed acrobatic moves and a man dancing on a rope suspended in the air. So entertaining! We then wondered around the village for a couple hours, (which is often used as the set for korean soap operas), and were provided with a glimpse into traditional village life, the typical arrangements of the houses and land as well as the livestock that would be kept. I would love to live somewhere like here, it seems such a peaceful and relaxing place - as long as I can have access to the internet though!
Will post some more updates soon, tomorrow I am going to a local market with Bok-Dong, then we will visit a few more palaces. In the evening we are going to watch a korean music performance at a local theatre. I can't wait...but for now, sleep :)
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